Past and Present Women

Upon arrival at Jorge Chávez International Airport in Lima (154 m | 505 ft), you’ll be warmly welcomed and transferred to your hotel in the district of Miraflores. Enjoy free time to rest and begin acclimating at your own pace.

Overnight in Lima

Today we begin our journey in Lima (154 m.a.s.l.), exploring the history of Andean civilizations through a guided visit to the Larco Museum, housed in an 18th-century vice-royal mansion built atop a 7th-century pre-Inca pyramid. This museum holds one of Peru’s most comprehensive collections of pre-Columbian art—over 45,000 pieces, including ceramics, textiles, metalwork, and ritual objects, primarily from the Moche culture.

Our visit will focus on how gender, sexuality, and the complementary duality of masculine and feminine were conceived in ancient Peru. We’ll explore the Checán Gallery, dedicated to erotic pre-Columbian representations that reveal notions of fertility, regeneration, and ritual life in the Andean worldview. “Checán,” a Muchik word meaning “to love” or “to desire,” gives name to this space that challenges modern stereotypes about aesthetics, identity, and sexuality.

We’ll have lunch at the museum’s charming café before heading to Lima’s historic center. There, we’ll explore the recently restored Santo Domingo Convent, which houses the remains of Santa Rosa de Lima, an emblematic figure and the first saint of the Americas. Her life offers a starting point for reflecting on the roles of women in colonial Lima, a society marked by complex intersections of class, ethnicity, and religion.

Strolling through the city center, we’ll also learn about the tapadas limeñas, women who veiled their faces with shawls, leaving only one eye visible—subtly defying the social norms of their time. This custom, which persisted well into the Republican era, invites us to reflect on the control of the female body and symbolic forms of resistance in Lima’s urban history.

Overnight in Lima

We begin our journey north to the territory of one of the most fascinating ancient Peruvian cultures: the Moche (or Muchik).

The Moche civilization flourished on Peru’s northern coast between the 1st and 8th centuries CE, renowned for its ceramic art, monumental architecture, and complex rituals. Their prolific iconography features mythical beings, lunar goddesses, marine hybrids, bicentric creatures, and symbols of everyday life, agriculture, and death. Sexuality, fertility, and ritual were intricately woven into the fabric of their calendar.

We take a domestic flight from Lima to Trujillo. Upon arrival, you’ll be welcomed and transferred to your hotel.

One of their main ceremonial centers is the Huaca de la Luna, adorned with striking mural reliefs. Discoveries such as the Lady of Cao, the priestesses of San José de Moro, and the priestess of Chornancap have radically changed our understanding of women’s roles in pre-Hispanic societies, revealing the religious and political authority these women held.

The Huaca de la Luna is a grand temple made of six overlapping structures, built with over 100 million adobe bricks and rising 45 meters high. Here, priestesses played central roles in religious rituals devoted to the gods, including human sacrifices and sacred ceremonies to maintain cosmic order and fertility. Their presence illustrates the high status of women within Moche elites.

Between the huacas once stood the Moche city, likely buried due to a major El Niño event. Ongoing archaeological work is uncovering streets and homes, transforming our view of Moche urbanism. We’ll also visit the modern Huacas de Moche Museum, which contextualizes these findings in an accessible and insightful way.

In the afternoon, we’ll visit Trujillo’s historic center. Though it’s the third-largest city in Peru, Trujillo surprises with its colonial architecture, colorful facades, and abundance of churches. The Plaza de Armas is considered one of South America’s most beautiful, dominated by the ochre-colored Minor Basilica Cathedral.

Note: Most museums and institutions are closed on Sundays.
Overnight in Trujillo

We continue north, driving along the Pan-American Highway through vast sugarcane fields toward the Chicama River Valley. A detour west brings us to the El Brujo archaeological complex, made up of three huacas: Cao, Partida, and Prieta. In the latter, archaeologist Junius Bird found evidence of human settlement dating back to 5000 BCE.

At Huaca Cao, multicolored murals depict scenes of war, fishing, dance, prisoners, and mythical Moche beings. Yet the most groundbreaking discovery was the royal burial that radically changed our understanding of women’s roles in ancient Peru: the mummy of the Lady of Cao, a powerful Moche ruler.

We’ll visit the modern site museum, which showcases this royal tomb in detail. The Lady of Cao held high political authority, and her mummy was preserved with intricate tattoos. Her discovery shocked the academic world, as it was previously believed that only men held power in pre-Hispanic societies.

At the Cao Museum, her story comes alive through ritual objects, burial goods, and immersive exhibits that connect us to her legacy of power and wisdom.

Continuing north, we arrive in Chiclayo. In the afternoon, we explore the vibrant Mercado Modelo, a lively hub of tradition, commerce, and community life—long associated with women’s active roles in public space. A special highlight is the Witches’ Market, where traditional healers sell herbs, potions, and spiritual items. This fascinating window into northern Peru’s enduring shamanic traditions blends ancient and syncretic elements rooted in millennia of spiritual practice.

Overnight in Chiclayo

Today we visit Lambayeque, a historic city just 12 km from Chiclayo.

Here lies the Royal Tombs of Sipán Museum, home to one of the most spectacular archaeological finds of recent decades: the tomb of the Lord of Sipán, a powerful Moche leader. The richness, symbolism, and craftsmanship of his burial goods—alongside others—shed light on the complexity and hierarchy of Moche society.

Ritual adornments reveal how gender complementarity was expressed through material culture—like the famous corn necklace crafted from gold and silver. We’ll also identify feminine figures, such as the lunar deity associated with priestesses.

Next, we head to the Chotuna–Chornancap archaeological complex, a key site for understanding the Lambayeque culture, heir to the Moche. Here, archaeologists uncovered new evidence of the continued central role of women: the tomb of the Lady of Chornancap.

Discovered in October 2011, her burial featured spectacular funerary offerings: bracelets, rings, nose and ear ornaments, ceremonial vessels, a scepter, crown, and mask—all in gold and silver. She was estimated to be 45–55 years old and lived during the late 13th century. Her body was placed on a raised platform, surrounded by human remains—likely sacrificial offerings for her journey to the afterlife.

Her iconography is rich in symbolism: depicted seated in profile on a crescent moon, facing a loom inside a temple. Such imagery appears throughout Lambayeque artifacts, including the famous Denver Vessel, a silver-repoussé container featuring deities and this female figure connected to water, the sea, and weaving.

We end the day at the Brüning Museum, which houses most of these objects and displays the forensic reconstruction of her face. Anthropologist Daniel Fairbanks used dental samples to conduct a genetic analysis, enabling this impressive facial recreation.

After the visit, we head to the airport. Farewell to the northern coast—we take a connecting flight from Chiclayo to Arequipa, via Lima.

Overnight in Arequipa

Known as the “White City”, Arequipa was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2002. Its colonial architecture, mestizo history, and vibrant cultural life make it an essential destination.

This beautiful city, steeped in tradition and strong local identity, offers contrasting experiences that enrich our exploration of the connection between Peru’s past and present.

In the morning, we’ll visit the Andean Sanctuaries Museum, where we’ll learn about the scientific process behind the discovery of “Juanita,” the famous Ampato mummy. This young girl, who lived during the time of the Inca Empire, was likely offered as a sacrificial tribute to the gods during a Capacocha ceremony, a sacred ritual in honor of the Sapa Inca.

Next, we head to the traditional district of Yanahuara, where we’ll visit a picantería—a culinary institution historically managed by women. These establishments preserve a gastronomic heritage deeply rooted in cultural mixing and the fusion of flavors, techniques, and ingredients from diverse traditions.

In the afternoon, we’ll take a walking tour of Arequipa’s historic center, concluding at the Santa Catalina Monastery, a monumental complex occupying an entire city block surrounded by high walls. At its peak, it housed over 400 nuns; today, fewer than thirty remain. Its colorful alleys and inner courtyards provide a unique glimpse into the secluded lives of these women—a city within the city.

Overnight in Arequipa

Early in the morning, we transfer to the airport for our flight to Cusco (3,400 m.a.s.l.).

Cusco was conceived as the sacred center of the Andean world—capital of the Tahuantinsuyo and the exclusive residence of the Inca elite, the panakas. Its ceremonial architecture and urban layout reflected divine order, political power, and connection with the cosmic forces. The Haucaypata plaza (now the Plaza de Armas) and the Coricancha temple were the central axes of this sacred design.

Today, the overlapping Inca and colonial walls reveal a story of conquest, transformation, and resistance. Walking its streets is like moving through layers of living history. Despite the flow of tourism, Cusco is still proudly inhabited by its people, who celebrate processions, parades, festivals, and communal gatherings here.

Afternoon at leisure in Cusco. We recommend visiting the Museum of Pre-Columbian Art.

Overnight in Cusco

Today we’ll take a guided walking tour of Cusco. Starting at Sacsayhuamán, we’ll descend toward the historic center, exploring the city’s main streets as we reconstruct its layered history.

New research helps us recover a more complete vision of the Inca world by integrating the fundamental role of women. Legendary figures like Mama Wako, founder of Cusco and symbol of spiritual strength and warrior spirit, and Chañan Cori Coca, a woman leader of exceptional status, stand out. The Coya, or Inca queen, was not merely the Sapa Inca’s consort—she held political responsibilities, including organizing the state cult to the Moon, with her own resources, temples, and staff.

Female presence also emerged through roles such as acllas, ñustas, and mamaconas—women who served in the ceremonial and political spheres of the state. These roles are still being researched and redefined.

Through chronicles and local stories, we’ll visit key places where these narratives come to life: the remains of the Acllawasi (later transformed into the Santa Catalina Convent), the Coricancha, where we’ll recall the powerful figure of Mama Ocllo, Coya and mother of Huayna Cápac, who held her own sacred water fountains or huacas in Cusco. We’ll also view a colonial painting depicting Beatriz Clara Coya, heir to the imperial lineage during colonial times, as we stroll streets where Inca foundations blend with colonial architecture.

Overnight in Cusco

We depart early toward the district of Chinchero, where we’ll visit two indigenous communities dedicated to agriculture and livestock. Here, organized and empowered women work to preserve their traditions while creating income for themselves and their families.

The communities of Umasbamba and Pongobamba are located near Lake Piuray, at 3,750 m.a.s.l., in a rural setting of stunning beauty and cultural tradition, surrounded by apus (sacred mountains).

In Umasbamba, Virginia and her family will welcome us and introduce us to their community. We’ll visit the small colonial church and the village square, both of which hold remarkable historical heritage. We’ll also join a traditional bread-making workshop using a local clay oven.

Then we’ll begin a scenic walk along the lake to Pongobamba, where we’ll visit the Kusi Kawsay Women’s Association (“Beautiful Life” in Quechua), a sustainable tourism initiative that helps women reclaim their culture and gain economic independence.

In the afternoon, we’ll enjoy a cultural activity with our hosts—this might be a hike to a natural viewpoint, a workshop on traditional herbs, or a demonstration of the textile-making process. In the evening, we’ll gather around the bonfire to share stories in an intimate conversation about their lives, challenges, and dreams.

We’ll spend the night in specially prepared family homes, offering warmth, simplicity, and heartfelt hospitality. An authentic experience in deep connection with the people and the land.

Overnight in Pongobamba

Early risers can enjoy the sunrise mirrored on Lake Piuray—a peaceful connection with nature, accompanied by birdsong and the stillness of the fields.

After breakfast, we bid farewell to our hosts, grateful for this exchange with women deeply rooted in their territory.
Sulpayki Kusi Kawsay! Thank you, Beautiful Life!

On the way to the Sacred Valley, we’ll stop at the Maras Salt Mines, still in use since pre-Inca times with traditional harvesting techniques. We then continue to Moray, a remarkable Inca agricultural experimentation center.

We’ll enjoy lunch en route before traveling along the Urubamba River to reach Ollantaytambo, where imposing ruins merge with the mountain landscape, cobbled streets, and still-inhabited colonial houses.

Overnight in Ollantaytambo

In the morning, we take the train to Machu Picchu, a gem of the Andean world nestled in the Cloud Forest, where the Andes meet the Amazon.

Built by Inca Pachacútec, this citadel is considered one of the Seven Wonders of the Modern World. Studies suggest it was a sacred and administrative center tied to astronomical and mountain-worship rituals.

Many female remains have been found here, possibly belonging to priestesses, suggesting that women played an important role at the site. The architecture, engineering, and symbolism of Machu Picchu continue to astound the world.

We’ll take a 2.5-hour guided tour, exploring its most emblematic temples, terraces, and viewpoints.

Machu Picchu is both a Cultural and Natural World Heritage Site. Its preservation depends on us all: please stay on marked paths and respect the site and your fellow visitors.

After the tour, we return to Aguas Calientes for lunch. You may then either take the train back to Ollantaytambo, or spend an extra night in Aguas Calientes if you wish to revisit Machu Picchu independently the following day.

Overnight in Cusco or Ollantaytambo

Today is your last day in Peru. If you wish to extend your stay, you will always be welcome!

In the morning, enjoy some free time. We recommend visiting the Mantay Project galleries, an initiative that supports adolescent mothers and their children in vulnerable situations. Their workshop and boutique showcase high-quality handmade products.

If you’d like to learn more about this project, visit their website (mantay.org) or contact us—we’ll be happy to help arrange a visit.

In the afternoon, you’ll take a domestic flight from Cusco to Lima and connect with your international flight.

We hope this journey has brought you closer to the heart of Peru and the enduring legacy of its women—past and present. May the voices of the women you’ve met continue to inspire you.

Hope to see you again soon!